Just over a year I wrote here at Blog Skooter on the video game console was missing me: the Master System II Tec Toy Promotion Summer Games. He came with Alex Kidd in memory and the Summer Games cartridge (California Games) as a gift. That was the model I had during my childhood.
On Last month I wrote that now he does not lack in Mays, for at last I have a Master System II Tec Toy Promotion Summer Games again. But things were not as simple as they seem. It was a real project that does not consider as finished, and in the following paragraphs explain the reason. I will leave to show most of the pictures of “final version” Console and accessories in the next article. This one will speak only of matter of cleaning and small repairs.
I would like to find a Master System II Tec Toy Promotion Summer Games just like mine would be if I had to date. How do I know how he would be? Take as a basis the two islands have for more than 20 years: the Super Nintendo and the Mega Drive III. The problem is that it is extremely difficult to find a Master System II is flawless. Believe, I was more than a year following auction sites. Almost all advertised consoles are in poor condition. Every now and then comes a virtually flawless, like this one, but shell out $ 6.999,99 on an island, no matter how good their status, I was definitely not in my plans. Nevertheless, this is not the Promotion Summer Games as I wanted.
I ended up deciding it was better to invest in less complete consoles and / or less preserved, with far more reasonable values, and try to improve them as much as possible. By improving understands: a beautiful cleaning and minor repairs, nothing miraculous, but already makes everything much more presentable. Of course I would rather find a Master System II in excellent condition as found Sega Genesis just like my childhood, where I had to do absolutely nothing but open the box and admire the extreme care that(s) owner(s) previous(is) They had. On the other hand, cleaning and repair work on a console and then watch the end result is quite satisfying.
In this article I will share with you my experience, I hope it can be helpful to others. Let's start?
First of all I would like to introduce you to my team of cleaning and restoration, for I will speak enough of them in Article:
A Caixa do Master System II
For many people it is not essential. Some people throw away any cash the next day to purchase the product. I like to save them. At least the console and other products that have a beautiful art and the potential to become a classic. Furthermore, they value the product when selling, When the case.
I keep the boxes from my Super Nintendo and my Mega Drive III in excellent condition for more than 20 years. On the other hand, in the case of the islands I had to reacquire, I could not boxes in such good condition. A do Sega Genesis until it is quite reasonable. A do Atari 2600 It is unfortunate, but it was the best I could find. The few cases Atari 2600 in good condition are the latest models of Polyvox, with non-detachable joysticks, in which I have no interest.
The Master System II Boxes I got were reasonable, but both need cleaning. What predominates same time dust, as well as fly poop. In one of them the former owner also pasted durex, which preferred not to remove to avoid the risk of spoiling, but if I had to try to get a hair dryer or other source of hot air, to soften the adhesive and facilitate removal without major damage. In another box there were brands of strange paints, I have no idea how they got there, but they were duly removed.
A melhor forma que encontrei de fazer uma boa limpeza nas caixas foi um algodão embebido em petrol. The benzene is an excellent solvent, with the advantage of not attacking the cardboard box and paint, and quickly evaporate without leaving residues. It may seem that it is not clearing, but just see the color that cotton is to make sure that it is removing a lot of dirt. Para casos mais extremos pode-se usar uma magic sponge, but it's nice to have enough caution, because both sides have a little abrasive and can take the natural glow box of the original laminate.
When the brightness is already committed, uma outra solução é aplicar um acrylic spray varnish, as or Acrilfix after cleaning. It is available with a glossy finish, semi-gloss and matte. Using the bright version, cria-se uma película transparente brilhante sobre a caixa, which gives a beautiful shine and helps protect the box. The Acrilfix tem proteção UV e fungicida, which should also help protect. The visual finish is very good, more to “Touch Response” (for lack of better expression) It is a little different.
The folds of the boxes tend to want to tear over time. To ease the situation I usually use masking tape from the inside. Never out not to harm the aesthetics and not to get glue on the box. The tape holds the folds together for longer.
Infelizmente não tirei fotos do antes e depois, but the end result will be in the next article. I leave just a couple of photos of fronts as an aperitif:
O Isopor do Master System II
Um dos isopores que peguei estava meio feio, dirty and even dead animals encrusted. After removing the fossils of insects, entrou em ação a magic sponge and to Pasta para Limpeza Limp Tek. With a little patience Styrofoam was far more white boy.
The covers of polystyrene are very hard to find, I do not know what's wrong with these people who lose these covers. In one of polystyrene I noticed that the cover was replaced. The other was simply absent. In any case, replacement is not complicated. Stationery stores usually sell Styrofoam plates and the thickness should be about the same, there's just cut to the correct size.
Nor did the photo before and after the polystyrene. Moreover, do antes eu fico até feliz de não ter feito, quero me esquecer da cena dos bichinhos o mais rápido possível. 😛 mas o resultado também poderá ser visto no próximo artigo, e neste pequeno aperitivo:
O Console – Parte Externa
A parte plástica do console não tem muito segredo. Costumo usar o See Multipurpose e uma flanela para tirar gordura, dust, land, and any other junk that has accumulated over the years. It is good to avoid products like alcohol that can attack the screen printing. I feel sad when I see Master System with the letters of the island all fading. See The apparently does not attack the screen printing as alcohol. At least never removed any product I have passed.
For electronic contacts can be used Clean contact Electric, but care must be taken with the plastic parts. I have seen these products make plastic practically disintegrate, then I advise using only metal parts. Isopropyl alcohol It can also help in this task and is far less aggressive with plastic.
I've noticed that, in some Master System, the white part adhesives is yellowish. In some cases only in black adhesive, which appear white in the text “On off”, “Joystick 1”, “Joystick 2”, and “3D”, in others the red sticker below the cartridge compartment is also yellowish. Por fim, in other cases, as in one of the islands I got: it's all white boy like new. I can not say why this phenomenon happens and why only affects some islands. I believe it is not only the sun to long years of. Maybe it's something with the glue used, which may have varied over the years of manufacturing. The fact is that this seems to be irreversible.
Finally, a touch of silicone, the same as is used in car dashboards, for example, It gives a nice shine on the island, as well as theoretically also help save you. Stay pretty much in Atari 2600, but the Master System is also cool.
O Console – Inner part
A very common problem in the Master System Tec Toy is that eventually they have issues with color. This may happen intermittently (power cycle solves) and affect more or less different TVs. The fact is that Tec Toy modified a little the Brazilian System Master circuit to adapt it to PAL-M color system, used almost exclusively in Brazil. In the middle of this adaptation have posted a couple of jacks RCA para saída A/V, instead of jack DIN used in the American version. The Americans took advantage in this, because jack DIN also has RGB components and synchronization, allowing extract them without making any internal modification. To complete, Tec Toy decided to use a jack DIN to connect to the source, which is quite out of the ordinary. That's something I'd like to ask the Tec Toy, Stefano Arnhold, it is a question that has intrigued me for years.
But back to the problem of colors: for some reason Tec Toy introduced a trimpot na placa do Master System. Trimpot It is a variable resistor that can be adjusted with the aid of a small screwdriver. Why use a trimpot instead of a simple fixed resistor? I'm not a great connoisseur of electronics, but I understand it's for one of two reasons: a) the circuit needs a very exact value resistor, and a fixed resistor would not give account, because all have a certain tolerance, then the solution is to put a trimpot and make the adjustment after the ready circuit; e/ou b) a part before the trimpot also has output with certain tolerance ranging from one console to another, and the trimpot It must be used to adapt it to the circuit rest. Whatever the case, the fact is that trimpot must be set so that the colors appear in all its grandeur. The ideal spot is generally between 9 and 12 hours for those who look the front console, but the exact ideal location varies from board to board.
To make the adjustment is necessary to remove the Master System cover and remove the top of the metallic cage that protects the circuit from RF interference. There is only one trimpot on plate, identified as VR1, then it is easy to identify it. The adjustment is then made with the Master System connected to the TV so that you can find the point where colors are perfect. Off point colors are distorted or completely absent, leaving everything gray. In most modern TVs the image may even disappear off the sweet spot. I had to make this adjustment on one of the islands and it was quite simple.
When you open one of the islands also noticed the absence of five screws. I do not know why people open a console if they are not able even to mount it again correctly. Would “Technical?” Curious? Ultimately, the Master System is an easy island to open and close, and find it unacceptable that someone forget a screw, as five!
I could pass, after the console to operate normally closed and with some less screws, but I'm too perfectionist accordingly. Then I went to a store that sells all kinds of screw taking one as a sample. The clerk informed me that no longer manufacture this type of screw. But I had an equal, except for the tip. The Master System screw has the straight tip and one that was available in the store was sharp. I decided to bring them anyway and take the tip with the help of Mini Grinder Pro'sKit PT-5201A and pliers. Ideally a vise instead of pliers, but do not have a.
The Mini Grinder It was very efficient and in no time I was already with five screws missing like the original. For those who make it home for a warning: the screw becomes extremely hot during “modeling”. Wait a bit before putting a hand on him. If using pliers, prefer a cable with rubberized, because the heat can go for it too.
The Master System cartridges
With the cartridges do the same cleansing that with the console, being careful not to drop the labels. Stickers with loose or loose ends in full, I use glue stick Pritt. I do not know if it's the most appropriate, but has worked. For contacts usually use a cotton swab soaked in isopropyl alcohol, which usually resolve the vast majority of cases of cartridges that are not working.
Os Controles do Master System
For the controls again worth the same cleaning the console, with See Multipurpose. It normally be controlling as gooey and sticky item used in consoles, accumulating numerous dead cells :P. Sometimes you also need to open them to clean. Then enter it again Clean contact Electric and the isopropyl alcohol. The failure points are usually in the directional buttons and contacts, but sometimes also in the plug, where the electrical contacts may have sunk into the plastic part.
Power Supply and Cables
Along with the other plastic items, a good cleaning with See Multipurpose, including the wires that tend to accumulate a lot of dirt, helps a lot. This also applies to all other cables: RF, / V, controls, etc.
Bonus: Pistola Light Phaser
I still have the Pistola Light Phaser of my childhood, stored with care for more than 20 years. With acquisition do Master System II, I decided to play a little with it. I was even recording this video to blog when Pistola Light Phaser decided fails. The trigger tangled and ended up losing the game. The tangle in question is just plastic with plastic, so what I did and immediately solved the problem was splashing some silicone spray on the trigger, so it started to slide without friction.
I hope you enjoyed this article. Next I will show in detail how was my Master System II, box and accessories after cleaning and small repairs.
And you, have any tips on how to clean, keep, fix consoles, boxes, and accessories? Tell us in the comments.